Tag: techniques

  • Want to Start Cooking? Make Soup!

    Last winter, one of the staff people in our building said to me, “I would give anything for one more bowl of my Mother’s chicken soup.” Homemade soup is a food we associate with family, tradition, and perhaps good memories. Every so often, I make a batch of the clam chowder that was served at Rhode Island shore dinner halls in years past. It reminds me of fun times with my extended family.

    IMG_1441 - Version 22015-01-21-red-clam-chowder-oyster-crackers© 2014 Penny Cherubino copy

    ("Rocky Point Clam Chowder" does have tomato and is thickened with crushed oyster crackers. You'll find a recipe here.)

    Soup Is Forgiving

    For those new to cooking at home, soup is a great place to start. In his book Ruhlman's Twenty, Michael Ruhlman quotes food writer Ruth Reichl who said, "If you've got chicken stock, you’ve got a meal.” (Among the recipes included in his twenty techniques are a few for soups.)

    What's more, it doesn’t have to be chicken stock. You can make soup with water or make your own stock from what you have on hand. Some cooks even freeze their peelings and vegetable scraps until they have enough to make a vegan soup stock.

    6a00e54fc42bb888340148c878977a970c-800wi

    (Ed wrote about this cabbage and kielbasa soup here. It's one of our favorites. It's my quick way to enjoy the flavors of stuffed cabbage and kielbasa with a lot less work.)

    Unlike fussy preparations, soup is very forgiving. If you don’t have one ingredient, you can usually substitute another. Soup cooks over low heat so it’s not likely to burn or scorch. And, it’s a great way to learn how to adjust the flavor of a dish.

    If you think your cabbage soup is flat tasting, ladle some into a small bowl and add a dash of vinegar to see if it helps. If you like the result, you can add some vinegar to the whole pot. The same can be done with herbs, spices, salt, and pepper.

    If you need a formula as a starting place for soup, I recommend Pam Anderson’s book, How to Cook Without A Book. She leads her chapter on soup with this rhyme, “Sauté an onion, then add vegetables, starch, and meat. Cook it in a quart of broth for a meal that can't be beat.” Then, she goes on to teach the reader to improvise around that theme.

    6a00e54fc42bb88834015393057e29970b-800wi-1

    (This roasted squash soup was made from leftovers and did not have meat added to it.)

    And, even the meat is optional. Anderson starts with a recipe for pureed vegetable soup and tells readers how to prepare variations with broccoli, cauliflower, potatoes, and squash.

    Most of the cookbooks on your shelf will have a few recipes for soup. I Googled "soup recipes" as I wrote this and the result was, "About 18,400,000 results (0.30 seconds)."

    However, recipes for soup can be used as simple inspiration or as a jumping off point. Take a look around your kitchen and see what you have on hand. Make a soup that is your own or, as in the case of the cabbage and kielbasa soup, make a soup version of a favorite dish for the flavor with a lot less work. 

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino, adapted for BostonZest from one of her Fresh & Local newspaper columns
    Photos: ©2011-2014 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

  • “The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science” Is for Cooks of All Skill Levels

    Since I preordered The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science, I've had some time to dig into this massive 1,000 page resource for cooks of all levels.

    And, don't be scared off by the term science. “It’s a book about learning the basic science behind food and the basic techniques behind cooking and how to apply those to your own food to make it better,” author J. Kenji Lopez-Alt told the Boston Globe.

    9780393081084_300

    Soon after I received my hardcover version, I bought The Food Lab's Kindle Edition so I could read it on the go in all those situations where I have to sit and wait. 

    IMG_4775 - Version 22015-10-18small-the-food-lab-cookbook-hardcover-kindle-© 2014 Penny Cherubino

    In the interest of full disclosure, Kenji was one of the editors during the years I wrote for Serious Eats. We worked for the same team and I learned a lot from his Food Lab column over there.

    I also fell madly in love with his dogs from the weekly photos of them working hard around Serious Eats Headquarters. That said, our readers know I don't recommend books or other products that have not made a positive difference in my life. 

    21-soups

    Here's the 30-minute minestrone from the book.

    Why I like The Food Lab

    I learn things from this man. He takes the time to do the testing and research to come up with the path to a great cooking result. Then, he tells you how you can adapt it for your own needs and resources.

    The thoughtfulness starts right inside the covers where that often empty space has conversion charts you'll find yourself flipping to all the time as you work in the kitchen.

    Kenji is a guide rather than a dictator. And, he clearly loves food and cooking. That comes through in every page. He admits that he is not perfect in the kitchen and shares funny stories about his experience with exploding blenders and weaning his wife from her favorite Ikea knife.

    He creates recipes but he also teaches techniques. For example, there is a section on how to make creamy vegetable soups without a recipe. When an appropriate opportunity arises, he'll have a section on knife skills for a particular task. If an ingredient is important and deserves a primer, he'll provide one. In the soup and stew section he has one on onions. (With our recent cold snap, I've been spending time in his Soup and Stews section.)

    35+lamb   43+veg+chart

    23+soups+152+experiment  

    You'll find dozens of kitchen tips throughout the book. With these and charts, graphs, illustrations, and photographs, he communicates with people the way they learn best. 

    It will take me a while to read this book from cover to cover, but that is something I intend to do. (And, it's why I carry the Kindle edition on my phone.) There is a lot of goodness in these pages and I'm going to take my time and let all this knowledge simmer into my work in the kitchen.

    Static1.squarespace

    Upcoming Boston Appearances

    Kenji will be in Boston starting on Saturday. You can meet him at the following events. 

    BOSTON: THE BOSTON BOOK FESTIVAL

    • The book festival event actually changed to 12:30"
    • Copley Square

    Kenji will be presenting his book at The Boston Book Festival, followed by a Q&A session and a book signing.

    ALLSTON, MA: BURGERS AND FRIED CHICKEN AT ROXY'S GRILLED CHEESE

    • Roxy's Grilled Cheese

    Kenji will be teaming up with his buddies from American Burger Revival for a burger and fried chicken sandwich pop-up at Roxy's Grilled Cheese in Allston. Stop by to have some tasty burgers from Richard Chudy and Sam Monsour, and Kenji's kimchi-brined double-fried hot chicken sandwiches, Animal-style fries, and more!

    No tickets necessary.

    Books will be on sale and he'll be signing and chatting with guests all night.

    BOSTON: THE CHICKEN LAB AT THE KIRKLAND TAP AND TROTTER

    • The Kirkland Tap and Trotter

    Kenji will be joining his friend Chef Tony Maws at Kirkland Tap and Trotter for a southern fried chicken feast! Come join them for the best fried chicken in town, to chat, and to get your books signed.

     What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

       

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino
    Photos: Courtesy of J. Kenji Lopez-Alt (the one with the Kindle by Penny Cherubino)