Tag: sous vide

  • Rolled Turkey Breast à la Hamersley’s

    We've already told you that Compound Butter Is Sous Vide Cooking's Best Friend. One of our favorite compound butter blends is based on the herb mixture that Gordon Hamersley used on his famous roast chicken.

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    Here we've used it on a boned turkey breast. Using her copy of Bistro Cooking at Home By Gordon Hamersley, Penny made a compound butter with unsalted butter, herbs de Province, parsley, rosemary, and lemon zest.

    She butterflied the turkey breast, slathered the inside with the lovely stuff, rolled it, tied it with butcher string, rolled it in more of the mixture, and popped it into a sous vide bag,

    Since this turkey would be sous vide rather than roasted, she added minced shallots and crushed whole cloves of garlic along with a good glug of olive oil to the bag with the turkey. At 145 degrees, the garlic and shallots will add flavor to the bag juices, but they will not cook and would become a raw note in the herb paste.

     

    Our Joule sous vide was set in a pot of water, heated to 145 degrees, and when ready, the turkey was cooked for two and a half hours. 

    When the Joule announced the turkey was done, Penny took it out, saved the collected juices in the bag, patted the turkey dry (leaving any clinging herbs in place), and seared the outside in more olive oil and a pad of the compound butter.

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    While the turkey waited on the cutting board, the bag juices were added to the searing pan to deglaze and reduce. One final pat of the compound butter was used to emulsify those juices off-heat for a rich and delicious pan sauce!

    And, if you prefer visual instruction, here is a link to Gordon Hamersley's appearance with Julia Child as a part of her Master Chefs series. You can watch him make this herb mixture and then use his measurements to adapt it for a compound butter. (Penny opted not to add the mustard this time, but might try adding it to either the butter or the bag another time.)

     

     

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    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Photography: © 2017 Penny & Ed Cherubino  

  • Do You Follow Recipes or Adapt Them?

    Learning to cook with two new cooking appliances has me reviewing and following recipes designed specifically for sous vide cooking with my Joule immersion circulator and for pressure cooking with my Instant Pot.

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    Slowly I’m figuring out whose temperature recommendations and time guidelines for sous vide cooking I can trust. The chicken shown above was cooked at 149 degrees for one hour.

    It’s the same way I determine which cookbook authors and websites conduct very good recipe testing and publish reliable guides. Kenji Alt-Lopes and his Sous Vide 101 posts over on Serious Eats seem the most reliable for the taste in our household.

    I’m keeping a sous vide journal to record details of each meal cooked and what happens if I do something wrong – like overestimating the thickness of a steak. Since sous vide cooking is something I’ve never attempted, it does come with a bit an experimental, make-a-mistake, correct-it-next-time, learning curve.

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    Pressure cookers were always in use among members of my extended family and I had one when I lived in a large suburban house. It was one of those things I chose not to move to a tiny city kitchen. Although the learning curve is less steep, I’ve already added too much liquid to a curry, forgetting that in the pressure cooker the sauce was not going to reduce and thicken.

    Screen Shot 2017-01-24 at Tuesday, January 24, 201712.37.27 PM

    Same Recipe, Different Outcomes

    All of this experimentation made me more aware of how daunting learning to cook can be. It helps to realize that the entire process is inexact and even old hands will not have a perfect outcome every time, even if they slavishly follow a recipe.

    A recent PBS video by Jacques Pépin has gone viral among my food-loving friends. 

    Jacques uses his recipe for caramelized pears to demonstrate how a cook can go wrong by not adapting a recipe to the conditions and ingredients on hand. For example, unripe pears take longer to cook than ripe ones. In the process of cooking the pears, the sugar used to form the caramel could burn before the unripe fruit cooks through. He also shows how to adapt for each possible problem.

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino
    Photos: ©2017 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

  • Do You Follow Recipes or Adapt Them?

    Learning to cook with two new cooking appliances has me reviewing and following recipes designed specifically for sous vide cooking with my Joule immersion circulator and for pressure cooking with my Instant Pot.

    IMG_1449

    Slowly I’m figuring out whose temperature recommendations and time guidelines for sous vide cooking I can trust. The chicken shown above was cooked at 149 degrees for one hour.

    It’s the same way I determine which cookbook authors and websites conduct very good recipe testing and publish reliable guides. Kenji Alt-Lopes and his Sous Vide 101 posts over on Serious Eats seem the most reliable for the taste in our household.

    I’m keeping a sous vide journal to record details of each meal cooked and what happens if I do something wrong – like overestimating the thickness of a steak. Since sous vide cooking is something I’ve never attempted, it does come with a bit an experimental, make-a-mistake, correct-it-next-time, learning curve.

    IMG_5022 copy

    Pressure cookers were always in use among members of my extended family and I had one when I lived in a large suburban house. It was one of those things I chose not to move to a tiny city kitchen. Although the learning curve is less steep, I’ve already added too much liquid to a curry, forgetting that in the pressure cooker the sauce was not going to reduce and thicken.

    Screen Shot 2017-01-24 at Tuesday, January 24, 201712.37.27 PM

    Same Recipe, Different Outcomes

    All of this experimentation made me more aware of how daunting learning to cook can be. It helps to realize that the entire process is inexact and even old hands will not have a perfect outcome every time, even if they slavishly follow a recipe.

    A recent PBS video by Jacques Pépin has gone viral among my food-loving friends. 

    Jacques uses his recipe for caramelized pears to demonstrate how a cook can go wrong by not adapting a recipe to the conditions and ingredients on hand. For example, unripe pears take longer to cook than ripe ones. In the process of cooking the pears, the sugar used to form the caramel could burn before the unripe fruit cooks through. He also shows how to adapt for each possible problem.

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino
    Photos: ©2017 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

  • Sous Vide Chicken Gremolata

    We finally broke down and added a Joule Sous Vide immersion circulator to our kitchen equipment. Penny did the reading and checked in with some of her more modernist cooking connections to be sure this one was the right one for a beginner at the method. 

    IMG_1454

    You can see the juice seeping from this boneless chicken breast that was vacuum sealed and cooked for 55 minutes in a 149-degree water bath. 

    Gremolata Flavor Component

    Penny made a batch of gremolata by chopping together lemon zest, garlic, and parsley until finely minced. (If you would like a real recipe, try this one from Epicurious.)  

    The chicken breasts were patted dry, rubbed with olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, then sprinkled with the gremolata and vacuum sealed. After their bags had spent the prescribed time in the sous vide bath, the breasts were patted dry again and quickly seared in a blazing hot cast iron skillet to add some color and caramelized flavor. 

    IMG_1447

    Since the garlic was still in an almost raw state after the low-temperature cooking, it didn't burn during the very quick searing process. 

    IMG_1449

    Simple chicken breasts were the first thing we tried after our new Joule arrived. They just had olive oil, salt and pepper. We seared one to have for supper and used the unseared, white meat for a great, moist chicken salad the next day.

    With simple cooking methods, you want to showcase the product, so for the first batch Penny bought Bell & Evens chicken. We both agreed it was one of the best "poached style" chicken breasts we had ever made. The batch shown above was made with Halal chicken. 

    What's on your Food Lover's Shopping List?

      

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Photos: ©2016 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

  • Sous Vide Chicken Gremolata

    We finally broke down and added a Joule Sous Vide immersion circulator to our kitchen equipment. Penny did the reading and checked in with some of her more modernist cooking connections to be sure this one was the right one for a beginner at the method. 

    IMG_1454

    You can see the juice seeping from this boneless chicken breast that was vacuum sealed and cooked for 55 minutes in a 149-degree water bath. 

    Gremolata Flavor Component

    Penny made a batch of gremolata by chopping together lemon zest, garlic, and parsley until finely minced. (If you would like a real recipe, try this one from Epicurious.)  

    The chicken breasts were patted dry, rubbed with olive oil, seasoned with salt and pepper, then sprinkled with the gremolata and vacuum sealed. After their bags had spent the prescribed time in the sous vide bath, the breasts were patted dry again and quickly seared in a blazing hot cast iron skillet to add some color and caramelized flavor. 

    IMG_1447

    Since the garlic was still in an almost raw state after the low-temperature cooking, it didn't burn during the very quick searing process. 

    IMG_1449

    Simple chicken breasts were the first thing we tried after our new Joule arrived. They just had olive oil, salt and pepper. We seared one to have for supper and used the unseared, white meat for a great, moist chicken salad the next day.

    With simple cooking methods, you want to showcase the product, so for the first batch Penny bought Bell & Evens chicken. We both agreed it was one of the best "poached style" chicken breasts we had ever made. The batch shown above was made with Halal chicken. 

    What's on your Food Lover's Shopping List?

      

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Photos: ©2016 Penny & Ed Cherubino