This wine is from Austria and is made from 100% Grüner Veltliner grapes. This is a grape we turn to when we're eating foods that are difficult to pair with wine, like salads, asparagus, or artichokes. It's a food-friendly wine, also perfect with seafood, oysters, fried, salty, fatty dishes. As a grape we just enjoy, we often try any bottle we spot by a new producer on a wine list.
Trying wines from different places, made with different grapes, and produced by different methods adds spice to our monthly ritual. Since 2007 we have raised a glass of sparkling wine to greet each new month!
This is another wine from a trusted importer, Winebow. If you ever see us shopping for wine, you'll notice us reading the back labels to see who selected this wine to import or distribute. When in doubt, we opt for someone who has introduced us to wonderful wines in the past.
We've been walking by the windows of Select Oyster Bar all winter watching and waiting for signs of the opening of this restaurant from chef Michael Serpa who had served us so many spectacular meals during his years at Neptune Oyster.
Yesterday, we went in for lunch, to taste, to try it, and to enjoy a couple of hours off during a very busy week. Fortunately, we snapped a few photos with our phones to record our first meal in a place we hope will become a neighborhood hang out for us.
Penny decided to splurge on the pan-roasted Maine lobster with Vidalia spring onion, brown butter, and lemon. With her first bite, it was clear that we were going to write about it. After a couple more bites she proclaimed, "Move over Jasper White, there's a new pan-roasted lobster champ in town and his name is Michael Serpa!"
Penny's Take on Her Lunch
I know that I will always remember my first bite of food at Select. Just as years after Jasper's closed, in my mind, I could still taste that wonderful pan-roasted lobster that Jasper White made famous.
Michael Serpa has put his special spin on this classic preparation with just a few ingredients and a great deal of skill with the pan. Smoky, sweet, slightly grilled onion flavor, balanced with nutty brown butter and lemon, bathed every cranny of a beautiful hard-shelled lobster.
The lobster meat was so tender that I was not afraid to offer Ed a piece of the tail meat early on my way to devouring everything but the shells. (Ed is very fussy about how his lobster tails are cooked.)
I did share a bit of claw and a piece of onion, but for this lunch, he was on his own. He would not be eating part of my meal. I told him I would be awhile and that he should order more food if he was still hungry. So, he did.
Ed's Lunch Notes
First of all, the lobster – the tiny bit that I managed to salvage from Penny’s grip – was, as she said, so tender (including the tail) that it reached applause-worthy perfection!
The mignonette sauce for my oysters (with the onion element chopped so fine it remained in suspension) was served in a easy-to-squirt bottle and added a nice accent to my Island Creeks.
The Icelandic Arctic Char, cooked just enough and combined with crispy skin, was a perfect intro dish.
While Penny was still busy with her lobster, I tried the Blackboard Crudo of the Day: Tender chunks of Yellowfin Tuna with bright accents.
Wines Were a Hit, Too
Penny was looking for something a bit lighter for an afternoon wine and picked Jean-Francois Merieau "Bulles" Touraine Sparkler. She borrowed the bottle to add a photograph of the label to our wine app. It is now on our wishlist next time we go wine shopping.
Ed enjoyed the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc which paired well with his oysters and char. Txakoli (Arregi), aerated with a pour from on-high, was a fitting match for the tuna and allowed us to linger at the end of the meal.
Service Charge Memo
We do want to put readers on notice that there is a service charge of 20% added to the pre-tax portion of the bill at Select. We don't mind, since we normally tip that or more. We took advantage of the extra tip line on our first bill to round up a bit, the way we would have if we were filling in the tip.
There are a number of conversations going on in the Boston food world about this decision to make certain the wait staff is properly rewarded for their efforts. We see a number of positive aspects and will write about that later.
All we'll say for now is that we know where we'll suggest going with anyone who quibbles about tips or embarrasses us by leaving too little. At Select, we won't have to sneak back to the table to slip a bit extra to the staff or make it up to them the next time we dine.
And that's a good thing, because we'll be looking for any excuse to go back to Select Oyster Bar, soon and often.
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Today, this 1886 receipt for towing a boat from the Craigie Bridge to Cambridge is listed on eBay for more than twenty times what it cost for the tow.
On September 11th, 1866, Captain Fred W. Stedman used the steam tow boat "Mattie Sargent" to tow the John Tara up river. Unlike other rivers that spurred upstream commerce, the Charles was not easlily navigable by large boats in its early days.
Oysters Blocked the Way
A very early description of the Charles by William Wood was reported in D. Hamilton Hurd's History of Middlesex County, Massachusetts.
While some locals did take a gastronomic approach to eat away the problem, the needed dredging didn't happen. And, as bridges spanning the river were added, the river became even less welcoming to large boats.
Once, oysters were plentiful in the Charles, but the damming of the river and filling in of the marshlands have changed the character of the wetland making it unsuitable to sustaining an oyster population today. In 2008, the Massachusetts Oyster Project planted 150,000 oysters at the mouth of the river. There, the brackish waters and tidal flow might nuture an oyster bank to help filter the water coming into Boston harbor from the Charles.
"Today the Charles at Boston… Does not appear actually to flow at all. It is more like a great mirror held to the city's most favoring profile." David McCord, 1948
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In doing my pre-visit menu research, I spotted cask beer on the menu. One of our first questions was to ask what was in the cask that day. Our fabulous bartender had one of those "I'm gonna make you very happy" smiles on his face as he told us he had just finished preparing a new cask and could offer Ed a taste of Tröegs Nugget Nectar, a hoppy imperial amber ale.
One sip from the tasting portion put a smile on Ed's face that was still there when we returned home. Apparently, this is a seasonal product not usually available on draft but since Row 34 has their own system, they were able to send their container to the brewery and have it filled.
We're pretty sure the supply at Row 34 must be gone by now but something else will be coming from that special tap. We later picked up the bottled version at Bauer Wine & Spirits. This has limited availability so grab some now if it tempts you.
Ed thinks, "Nugget Nectar is the perfect name, no exaggeration."
As a draft beer lover, he was also impressed with the number of taps and the selection offered. Our friend Howie Rubin from Bauer said to be sure to try the selections from Trillium Brewing Company. Their tasting room happens to be next door but he really enjoyed sampling the beer at Row 34.
I tried a lovely crisp cava from Pere Mata. And, I had a caddy of flavors to play with as the meal proceeded. (I think they should sell these caddies at both ICOB and Row 34. They would probably be expensive, but I think they'd make a delightful addition to any kitchen counter.)
Since I'm a warm buttery lobster roll lover, my order was easy. The usual cole slaw is missing from my order because I can't have mayo. Perhaps that led to an abundance of chips, both regular and sweet potato. Those were one of the lovely, "aren't these wonderful," side notes of the day. Between the two of us, not a chip crumb remained as our plates were removed.
The lobster was sweet and warm with just enough butter. The roll was so perfect I had to ask if they were making their own. I was told it was Iggy's. It was slightly larger than most hot dog rolls and took the grilling like a pro. Not too sweet and not at all gummy which are common lobster roll problems.
Ed was in an oyster mood and did rounds of Island Creeks and Row 34s. Down the center are three saucing options: traditional mignonette, a zingy cocktail sauce, and an Asian influenced version with chilies and cilantro.
Once more, deep knowledge on the part of our server gave us a detailed background on the growing of Island Creeks vs Row 34s. Island Creeks grow on the ocean floor while Row 34s are suspended in racks for the maturing process.
Island Creeks (above) have long been Ed's favorite oyster. But, he was up for a taste test. "I tried a half dozen (3 and 3) and honestly couldn’t tell the difference," he said. "Never one to give up easily, I repeated the order hoping to detect any subtle variations. Same results … outstanding oysters … my kind of experiment."
We also had the lobster tacos which were an old favorite of mine from Chef Jeremy Sewall's Brookline restaurant Lineage. Crisp housemade tacos contain a smear of avocado plus big pieces of cold lobster topped with a bright mango salsa.
And, yes, these do come three to an order but I was more interested in eating them than taking photos. Ed managed to get this shot while there were still two on the plate.
I scooped up the remaining salsa with the wonderful potato chips that came with my lobster roll.
Dessert
We finished with a butterscotch pudding – another old love from the time when Chef Sewall was at Great Bay which once resided in the space where Island Creek Oyster Bar is today. We also had a candy bar dessert that was our server's favorite. We took half of that home because we were both stuffed.
Feeling At Home
In the car on the way home, we both had the same feeling about the hospitality at Row 34. I said, "There is something about walking into a new place and feeling at home within minutes." While Ed noted, "I expected the same service and quality as their Kenmore Square eateries and was not disappointed. I felt at home from the moment I stepped into the space."
Row 34 will go into our regular rotation despite the fact that we seldom find ourselves in that part of the city. As we said, this is a destination spot. We both look forward to outdoor seating should warm days ever return to Boston.
In doing my pre-visit menu research, I spotted cask beer on the menu. One of our first questions was to ask what was in the cask that day. Our fabulous bartender had one of those "I'm gonna make you very happy" smiles on his face as he told us he had just finished preparing a new cask and could offer Ed a taste of Tröegs Nugget Nectar, a hoppy imperial amber ale.
One sip from the tasting portion put a smile on Ed's face that was still there when we returned home. Apparently, this is a seasonal product not usually available on draft but since Row 34 has their own system, they were able to send their container to the brewery and have it filled.
We're pretty sure the supply at Row 34 must be gone by now but something else will be coming from that special tap. We later picked up the bottled version at Bauer Wine & Spirits. This has limited availability so grab some now if it tempts you.
Ed thinks, "Nugget Nectar is the perfect name, no exaggeration."
As a draft beer lover, he was also impressed with the number of taps and the selection offered. Our friend Howie Rubin from Bauer said to be sure to try the selections from Trillium Brewing Company. Their tasting room happens to be next door but he really enjoyed sampling the beer at Row 34.
I tried a lovely crisp cava from Pere Mata. And, I had a caddy of flavors to play with as the meal proceeded. (I think they should sell these caddies at both ICOB and Row 34. They would probably be expensive, but I think they'd make a delightful addition to any kitchen counter.)
Since I'm a warm buttery lobster roll lover, my order was easy. The usual cole slaw is missing from my order because I can't have mayo. Perhaps that led to an abundance of chips, both regular and sweet potato. Those were one of the lovely, "aren't these wonderful," side notes of the day. Between the two of us, not a chip crumb remained as our plates were removed.
The lobster was sweet and warm with just enough butter. The roll was so perfect I had to ask if they were making their own. I was told it was Iggy's. It was slightly larger than most hot dog rolls and took the grilling like a pro. Not too sweet and not at all gummy which are common lobster roll problems.
Ed was in an oyster mood and did rounds of Island Creeks and Row 34s. Down the center are three saucing options: traditional mignonette, a zingy cocktail sauce, and an Asian influenced version with chilies and cilantro.
Once more, deep knowledge on the part of our server gave us a detailed background on the growing of Island Creeks vs Row 34s. Island Creeks grow on the ocean floor while Row 34s are suspended in racks for the maturing process.
Island Creeks (above) have long been Ed's favorite oyster. But, he was up for a taste test. "I tried a half dozen (3 and 3) and honestly couldn’t tell the difference," he said. "Never one to give up easily, I repeated the order hoping to detect any subtle variations. Same results … outstanding oysters … my kind of experiment."
We also had the lobster tacos which were an old favorite of mine from Chef Jeremy Sewall's Brookline restaurant Lineage. Crisp housemade tacos contain a smear of avocado plus big pieces of cold lobster topped with a bright mango salsa.
And, yes, these do come three to an order but I was more interested in eating them than taking photos. Ed managed to get this shot while there were still two on the plate.
I scooped up the remaining salsa with the wonderful potato chips that came with my lobster roll.
Dessert
We finished with a butterscotch pudding – another old love from the time when Chef Sewall was at Great Bay which once resided in the space where Island Creek Oyster Bar is today. We also had a candy bar dessert that was our server's favorite. We took half of that home because we were both stuffed.
Feeling At Home
In the car on the way home, we both had the same feeling about the hospitality at Row 34. I said, "There is something about walking into a new place and feeling at home within minutes." While Ed noted, "I expected the same service and quality as their Kenmore Square eateries and was not disappointed. I felt at home from the moment I stepped into the space."
Row 34 will go into our regular rotation despite the fact that we seldom find ourselves in that part of the city. As we said, this is a destination spot. We both look forward to outdoor seating should warm days ever return to Boston.
In doing my pre-visit menu research, I spotted cask beer on the menu. One of our first questions was to ask what was in the cask that day. Our fabulous bartender had one of those "I'm gonna make you very happy" smiles on his face as he told us he had just finished preparing a new cask and could offer Ed a taste of Tröegs Nugget Nectar, a hoppy imperial amber ale.
One sip from the tasting portion put a smile on Ed's face that was still there when we returned home. Apparently, this is a seasonal product not usually available on draft but since Row 34 has their own system, they were able to send their container to the brewery and have it filled.
We're pretty sure the supply at Row 34 must be gone by now but something else will be coming from that special tap. We later picked up the bottled version at Bauer Wine & Spirits. This has limited availability so grab some now if it tempts you.
Ed thinks, "Nugget Nectar is the perfect name, no exaggeration."
As a draft beer lover, he was also impressed with the number of taps and the selection offered. Our friend Howie Rubin from Bauer said to be sure to try the selections from Trillium Brewing Company. Their tasting room happens to be next door but he really enjoyed sampling the beer at Row 34.
I tried a lovely crisp cava from Pere Mata. And, I had a caddy of flavors to play with as the meal proceeded. (I think they should sell these caddies at both ICOB and Row 34. They would probably be expensive, but I think they'd make a delightful addition to any kitchen counter.)
Since I'm a warm buttery lobster roll lover, my order was easy. The usual cole slaw is missing from my order because I can't have mayo. Perhaps that led to an abundance of chips, both regular and sweet potato. Those were one of the lovely, "aren't these wonderful," side notes of the day. Between the two of us, not a chip crumb remained as our plates were removed.
The lobster was sweet and warm with just enough butter. The roll was so perfect I had to ask if they were making their own. I was told it was Iggy's. It was slightly larger than most hot dog rolls and took the grilling like a pro. Not too sweet and not at all gummy which are common lobster roll problems.
Ed was in an oyster mood and did rounds of Island Creeks and Row 34s. Down the center are three saucing options: traditional mignonette, a zingy cocktail sauce, and an Asian influenced version with chilies and cilantro.
Once more, deep knowledge on the part of our server gave us a detailed background on the growing of Island Creeks vs Row 34s. Island Creeks grow on the ocean floor while Row 34s are suspended in racks for the maturing process.
Island Creeks (above) have long been Ed's favorite oyster. But, he was up for a taste test. "I tried a half dozen (3 and 3) and honestly couldn’t tell the difference," he said. "Never one to give up easily, I repeated the order hoping to detect any subtle variations. Same results … outstanding oysters … my kind of experiment."
We also had the lobster tacos which were an old favorite of mine from Chef Jeremy Sewall's Brookline restaurant Lineage. Crisp housemade tacos contain a smear of avocado plus big pieces of cold lobster topped with a bright mango salsa.
And, yes, these do come three to an order but I was more interested in eating them than taking photos. Ed managed to get this shot while there were still two on the plate.
I scooped up the remaining salsa with the wonderful potato chips that came with my lobster roll.
Dessert
We finished with a butterscotch pudding – another old love from the time when Chef Sewall was at Great Bay which once resided in the space where Island Creek Oyster Bar is today. We also had a candy bar dessert that was our server's favorite. We took half of that home because we were both stuffed.
Feeling At Home
In the car on the way home, we both had the same feeling about the hospitality at Row 34. I said, "There is something about walking into a new place and feeling at home within minutes." While Ed noted, "I expected the same service and quality as their Kenmore Square eateries and was not disappointed. I felt at home from the moment I stepped into the space."
Row 34 will go into our regular rotation despite the fact that we seldom find ourselves in that part of the city. As we said, this is a destination spot. We both look forward to outdoor seating should warm days ever return to Boston.
Last week, at Island Creek Oyster Bar, we enjoyed a great rosé wine by the glass. Frankly, we didn’t think we liked Cabernet Franc. Then, the 2010 Chateau Soucherie Cuvee L’Astrée Rosé de Loire opened our eyes, our noses, our palates.
This wine, a selection of Neal Rosenthal, one of our favorite importers, was a great partner for our oysters, lobster roe noodles with Brussels sprout leaves, braised short ribs, grilled lobster, trumpet mushrooms and pecorino. And, Virginia Striped Bass with pearl pasta, shiitake mushrooms, sweet and sour peppers, spring onion cream, and grilled ramps.
This pretty, pink glass of luscious had the backbone to face this line up of flavors and stand up to all of them. It's going be added to our next wine order. We have a feeling it will be one of our roof deck wines of the year.
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