Tag: New Deal Fish Market

  • Our October Sparkler Is Patrice Colin Les Perles Grises!

    Another month means another wine to keep Our Sparkling Resolution to enjoy a glass of bubbles on the first of every month. This time Patrice Colin Les Perles Grises (Perles Grises = Grey Pearls) offered us both a winemaker and a grape we had never tried.

    IMG_2962

    This food friendly rosé from France's Loire Valley is made from 100% Pineau d’Aunis. (This grape is also known as Chenin Noir but bears no resemblance to Chenin Blanc.) The production is biodynamic and the vineyard has been in the same family since the 1800s.

    Here are a few comments about this sparkler that we found in our tasting research:

    Carolyn Joy wrote, "Perles Grises is perfect on its own or with food. Its mid-bodied structure and balanced acidity allows for pairing with light white meats, seafood and shellfish as well as appetizers and desserts."

    Palate Press says, "Very light, almost clear, copper color. The nose is interesting, a bouquet of white flowers and pencil shavings. On the palate it has huge flavors of pencil shavings with flint, rose water, pepper, and red currants. Smoke lingers on the finish. Pair with a fruit tart dessert."

    Europa Wine Merchant wrote, "This bubbly made with the Pineau d’Aunis grape this has the varietal’s tell tale peppery quality along with scents of rose blossom, lilac, white raspberry, mirabelle plum and lanolin, firm, mineral, stony palate presence with pretty notes of small red berries, fresh herbs and a peppery finish all in Colin’s elegant style."

    IMG_2103

    We sampled a bottle of this wine with friends and a table full of delicious seafood. The comments were positive and at the $15 price point it is certainly one we'll buy again. 

    12377539_948546018549029_2464496194576862981_o

    Finding new wines to toast each new month keeps us on a constant treasure hunt. We seldom pass a wine shop without stopping in to explore its offerings. This wine came from City Liquors on one of our favorite blocks of Cambridge Street in Cambridge. (map)

    12491850_948552668548364_5815234730730087674_o

    Penny was pleased with both the selection and service when she stopped in while making routine visits to Mayflower Poultry, Petsi Pies, and New Deal Fish Market. It looks like she'll pack an extra quarter for the parking meter in future visits to this food and wine lovers block. 

    What's on your Food Lover's Shopping List?

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Photos: ©2016 Penny & Ed Cherubino, City Liquors photos from own site.

  • Happy Times Digging Clams

    Author Tamar Adler in “An Everlasting Meal: Cooking with Economy and Grace” praised bivalves writing, “Clams and mussels, with their hard little shells and tiny bodies, are among the most naturally giving of sea creatures. They carry tiny wells of seawater with them wherever they go.”

    I agree and love the fact that when you cook with them, they add the bounty of that fresh seawater flavor to the dish. 

    IMG_3283 clams - Version 22015-07-31-new-deal-seafood-fish-clams-oysters-© 2014 Penny Cherubino

    These great fresh clams were at New Deal Fish Market on Cambridge Street in Cambridge.

    Clams are something I associate with happy memories. They make me think of days on the beach digging softshell clams. I remember, as a kid, opening small clams on our boat with my clam knife and passing them to my father to enjoy while he and my uncles dug bushels of the larger quahogs that would become part of our frozen winter seafood supply. 

    7395921930_2cffb98b21_z

    From the Boston Public Library, Leslie Jones Collection, a No Digging Clam Sign from 1934 – 1956.

    Aside from shucking, my job was to sort and test the clams with a ring to be sure they were all of legal size. Clams are one of the easier foods to forage, but you do need a license from the local city or town where you will be digging and to know the size and daily catch limits. You should also check with the local shellfish authorities daily to be certain shellfish from that area are safe to eat.  

    IMG_3293 countneck - Version 22015-07-31-new-deal-seafood-fish-clams-countneck-© 2014 Penny Cherubino

    New England Clams

    Our local names for clams can be confusing to visitors. We call the soft shell clams with the long, protruding siphon a steamer, and the middle size hard shell clam a littleneck. Wikipedia explains the grades, “The smallest legally harvestable clams are called countnecks, next size up are littlenecks, then topnecks. Above that are the cherrystones, and the largest are called quahogs or chowder clams.”

    Razor clams or as they are officially know Atlantic Jackknife Clams have been gaining popularity, but I find they need a really skillful hand to prepare. It’s not something I would tackle at home. 

    The very large surf clam that was used to make Howard Johnson’s famous clam strips is found today in some chowders and sushi.

    6284514900_7a343fd133_z

    Howard Johnson's postcard from the Boston Public Library Tichnor Bros. Inc., Boston, Mass. Collection.

    Summer Food

    Some favorite foods of summer are based on this category of shellfish. Chowders, fried clams, stuffed clams, clambakes, steamers, clam fritters (called clam cakes in Rhode Island) all give us reasons to visit summer destinations along the shore.

    6a00e54fc42bb88834017eea3e3c6a970d-800wi

    Rocky Point clam chowder with clam cakes for dipping. (More about this here)

    Hot weather brings out cravings for some of my favorite clam dishes. One dish that I often find myself wanting is Clams Al Forno – a wonderful dish of littlenecks roasted in their shells and topped with a mixture of chopped tomatoes, sliced onion, chopped garlic, jalapeño, red pepper flakes, white wine, and butter. When all the clams are open, they are sprinkled with julienned scallions and served with lemon wedges and plenty of crusty bread to soak up the sauce.

    The full recipe is available in Cucina Simpatica: Robust Trattoria Cooking From Al Forno by Al Forno restaurant owners Joanne Killeen and George Germon. 

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

      

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino (Adapted for BostonZest from one of her Fresh & Local newspaper columns)
    Photos: ©2015 Penny Cherubino & Courtesy of the Boston Public Library, Leslie Jones Collection and their Tichnor Bros. Inc., Boston, Mass. Collection

  • Mussels Are Sustainable, Easy to Cook, and Fun to Flavor

    There are abundant reasons to put mussels on your shopping list this fall and winter. I was recently reminded of just how local and sustainable these shellfish are by blogger Richard Auffrey who sang the praises of mussels on his site, The Passionate Foodie. 

    3 - Version 42014-08-14-mussels-la voile-© 2011 Penny Cherubino

    Mussels Do Have a Season

    Taste is important and cool weather is when our local mussels are full of flavor. The folks at Maine Sea Grant explained, “Mussels can be harvested all year, but most fishing is in the winter when the taste and quality of the meat is best (before the mussels begin spawning in spring and summer).”

    While some Massachusetts mussels come to market, most of the fresh, live, blue mussels we see in local stores are from Maine or Prince Edward Island. Maine claims the US title to have, ”historically ranked first in mussel landings.” Their harvest includes both wild mussels gathered along the rocky coast and farmed mussels from the bays. In aquaculture, from seed to harvest, these filter feeders take only 12-18 months to reach your table.

    IMG_7572 - Version 22014-08-14-mussels-la voile-© 2011 Penny Cherubino

    Mussels Mariniere

    Perhaps the best known recipe for these bivalves is Mussels Mariniere. For this lovely French inspired dish, I chop a shallot, a clove of garlic, some parsley, thyme, and sauté those in butter to soften. Then I add half a bottle of crisp white wine, bring it to a boil, and add my cleaned, debearded, and lively mussels. (Always discard any mussels that don’t close up when you tap them.)

    I cook the mussels for 3-5 minutes – until they just open. Pour the whole thing into a big bowl and serve with crusty bread.

    Here's a good video on how to prep your mussels for cooking from the Epicurous.com Around the World in 80 Dishes series.

    Buy your mussels from a trusted fishmonger. I was at New Deal Fish Market in Cambridge recently and watched one of their staff check each of the mussels he was gathering for a customer. 

    Ready to Party

    The beauty of most mussel recipes is that you can easily make them for two or for twenty. I once served the first course of mussels for 30 people at a friend's house while he prepared the rest of the meal. Fortunately, he had a large version of this Granite Ware stock pot ready for the job. At home, I use my All-Clad 12-Quart Multi Cooker.

    Mussels act like chameleons in the kitchen. That’s why you’ll see them on menus from diners and pubs to French, Italian, Asian, and modern American restaurants. A big plate of mussels fits into today’s concept of shared plates that is popular with both chefs and diners. And, a creative cook can change up the flavor profile as often as he or she wants.

    Switch the shallot to green onions; herbs to red chili, lemongrass, and cilantro; and wine to coconut milk with a dash of fish sauce, and you have Thai style mussels.

    Give me a bag of mussels and I'll ad-lib what to do with them from what's on hand in my kitchen. If you prefer recipes to ad lib cooking, here are a few versions for mussels that are pretty close to the way I make these dishes.

    Mussels Mariniere from Putney Farm (And when they say 20-30 minutes, that is the start to finish time to prepare the dish, not cooking time.)

    Thai style mussels with coconut milk from Food & Wine. 

    Curried mussels from Saveur.

    Ibearian style mussels with chorizo and tomato (You'll find this style in both Spain and Portugal.)

    Next Up on the Topic of Mussels

    In an upcoming post, Ed and I will tell you about some of our favorite mussel dishes when dining out in the Boston area. We would also love to hear your opinons. Let us know. Add a comment here – send it to us on twitter or send us an email.

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list? Shop Amazon for all your kitchen & dining needs and support this site!

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Photos: ©2014 Penny & Ed Cherubino