Tag: Michael Ruhlman

  • Fall for Braising! It’s One of Our Favorite Cooking Techniques

    Braising is a great cooking method for fall and winter. With a little bit of preparation time and a few hours of letting a big pot of food slowly simmer, you can create a wonderful meal plus leftovers that can give you days of enjoyment.

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    We enjoyed three meals from one pot of braised chicken thighs. First we had them with brown rice and vegetables, then in a big batch of fried rice, and finally in a frittata.

    What Is Braising?

    The New Food Lover's Companion defines braise as, “A cooking method by which food (usually meat or vegetables) is first browned in fat, then cooked (tightly covered) in a small amount of liquid at low heat for a lengthy period of time. The long, slow cooking develops flavor and tenderizes foods by gently breaking down their fibers.”

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    Favorite Braises

    Braised dishes can be as simple and homey as pot roast with potatoes and carrots. Or you can create zesty dishes like our favorite lamb shanks in a coffee chipotle sauce with carrots and onions or marinated chicken thighs flavored with ginger, garlic, soy, and scallions in the photo above.

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    That lamb is a dish we often make for company. Lamb shanks are a tough, bone-in cut of meat and are perfect for braising. The connective tissue and bone marrow melt into the braising liquid giving it an unctuous mouth-feel. 

    Penny always cooks the dish the day before and lets it sit in the refrigerator overnight. That lets her remove the fat that comes to the top before tucking it back in the oven to reheat. While the lamb bubbles away, she makes a big batch of cheesy polenta to serve alongside. The next day leftovers become one of the best lamb chilies you’ve ever tasted.

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    We enjoy braised chicken thighs more often as a way to stockpile good food for a busy week.

    After the chicken has marinated, it’s cooked in the marinade plus some wine and Asian chicken stock. When the meat is meltingly tender, we enjoy a wonderful supper. In addition we have two great products to make other meals – the chicken thighs and a rich, Asian flavored chicken sauce. (Penny often freezes a bit of that sauce to enrich the next chicken braise.)

    Second Acts!

    A recent batch of chicken thighs was served the first night with brown rice and fresh vegetables. The following day, leftover rice and shredded chicken became a wok full of fried rice (shown above). As a last act, the remaining chicken appeared in a frittata for Sunday brunch (shown below).

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    Bonus Points for Braising

    It can make entertaining a breeze because a braised dish is often better a day or two after you make it. The cook can spend less time in the kitchen and more time enjoying guests.

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    One year we made braised turkey for the holidays and cut back the work on the day of the meal.

    The best cuts of meat for braising are the inexpensive ones. If they're on the bone, it adds to the flavor and, by the end of cooking, the meat will be falling-off-the-bone tender.

    Removing excess fat can make a braise a healthier option allowing you to include a lot of vegetables to balance your plate.

    A braise fills your home with lovely, warm, comforting aromas – just what you need on a stormy day.

    Finally, as Michael Ruhlman writes in his book Ruhlman's Twenty, “Another great facet of braising is that it’s easy. Anyone can do it and do it well. It’s not like decorating a cake or boning a chicken in one piece. Everyone can get a pan hot, get a good sear on a piece of meat, add some liquid to the pan, slip it in the oven, and then find something else to do for hours.”

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    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Photos: ©2008-2017 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

    (Adapted for BostonZest from one of our Fresh & Local newspaper columns.)

  • Want to Start Cooking? Make Soup!

    Last winter, one of the staff people in our building said to me, “I would give anything for one more bowl of my Mother’s chicken soup.” Homemade soup is a food we associate with family, tradition, and perhaps good memories. Every so often, I make a batch of the clam chowder that was served at Rhode Island shore dinner halls in years past. It reminds me of fun times with my extended family.

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    ("Rocky Point Clam Chowder" does have tomato and is thickened with crushed oyster crackers. You'll find a recipe here.)

    Soup Is Forgiving

    For those new to cooking at home, soup is a great place to start. In his book Ruhlman's Twenty, Michael Ruhlman quotes food writer Ruth Reichl who said, "If you've got chicken stock, you’ve got a meal.” (Among the recipes included in his twenty techniques are a few for soups.)

    What's more, it doesn’t have to be chicken stock. You can make soup with water or make your own stock from what you have on hand. Some cooks even freeze their peelings and vegetable scraps until they have enough to make a vegan soup stock.

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    (Ed wrote about this cabbage and kielbasa soup here. It's one of our favorites. It's my quick way to enjoy the flavors of stuffed cabbage and kielbasa with a lot less work.)

    Unlike fussy preparations, soup is very forgiving. If you don’t have one ingredient, you can usually substitute another. Soup cooks over low heat so it’s not likely to burn or scorch. And, it’s a great way to learn how to adjust the flavor of a dish.

    If you think your cabbage soup is flat tasting, ladle some into a small bowl and add a dash of vinegar to see if it helps. If you like the result, you can add some vinegar to the whole pot. The same can be done with herbs, spices, salt, and pepper.

    If you need a formula as a starting place for soup, I recommend Pam Anderson’s book, How to Cook Without A Book. She leads her chapter on soup with this rhyme, “Sauté an onion, then add vegetables, starch, and meat. Cook it in a quart of broth for a meal that can't be beat.” Then, she goes on to teach the reader to improvise around that theme.

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    (This roasted squash soup was made from leftovers and did not have meat added to it.)

    And, even the meat is optional. Anderson starts with a recipe for pureed vegetable soup and tells readers how to prepare variations with broccoli, cauliflower, potatoes, and squash.

    Most of the cookbooks on your shelf will have a few recipes for soup. I Googled "soup recipes" as I wrote this and the result was, "About 18,400,000 results (0.30 seconds)."

    However, recipes for soup can be used as simple inspiration or as a jumping off point. Take a look around your kitchen and see what you have on hand. Make a soup that is your own or, as in the case of the cabbage and kielbasa soup, make a soup version of a favorite dish for the flavor with a lot less work. 

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino, adapted for BostonZest from one of her Fresh & Local newspaper columns
    Photos: ©2011-2014 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

  • Want to Start Cooking? Make Soup!

    Last winter, one of the staff people in our building said to me, “I would give anything for one more bowl of my Mother’s chicken soup.” Homemade soup is a food we associate with family, tradition, and perhaps good memories. Every so often, I make a batch of the clam chowder that was served at Rhode Island shore dinner halls in years past. It reminds me of fun times with my extended family.

    IMG_1441 - Version 22015-01-21-red-clam-chowder-oyster-crackers© 2014 Penny Cherubino copy

    ("Rocky Point Clam Chowder" does have tomato and is thickened with crushed oyster crackers. You'll find a recipe here.)

    Soup Is Forgiving

    For those new to cooking at home, soup is a great place to start. In his book Ruhlman's Twenty, Michael Ruhlman quotes food writer Ruth Reichl who said, "If you've got chicken stock, you’ve got a meal.” (Among the recipes included in his twenty techniques are a few for soups.)

    What's more, it doesn’t have to be chicken stock. You can make soup with water or make your own stock from what you have on hand. Some cooks even freeze their peelings and vegetable scraps until they have enough to make a vegan soup stock.

    6a00e54fc42bb888340148c878977a970c-800wi

    (Ed wrote about this cabbage and kielbasa soup here. It's one of our favorites. It's my quick way to enjoy the flavors of stuffed cabbage and kielbasa with a lot less work.)

    Unlike fussy preparations, soup is very forgiving. If you don’t have one ingredient, you can usually substitute another. Soup cooks over low heat so it’s not likely to burn or scorch. And, it’s a great way to learn how to adjust the flavor of a dish.

    If you think your cabbage soup is flat tasting, ladle some into a small bowl and add a dash of vinegar to see if it helps. If you like the result, you can add some vinegar to the whole pot. The same can be done with herbs, spices, salt, and pepper.

    If you need a formula as a starting place for soup, I recommend Pam Anderson’s book, How to Cook Without A Book. She leads her chapter on soup with this rhyme, “Sauté an onion, then add vegetables, starch, and meat. Cook it in a quart of broth for a meal that can't be beat.” Then, she goes on to teach the reader to improvise around that theme.

    6a00e54fc42bb88834015393057e29970b-800wi-1

    (This roasted squash soup was made from leftovers and did not have meat added to it.)

    And, even the meat is optional. Anderson starts with a recipe for pureed vegetable soup and tells readers how to prepare variations with broccoli, cauliflower, potatoes, and squash.

    Most of the cookbooks on your shelf will have a few recipes for soup. I Googled "soup recipes" as I wrote this and the result was, "About 18,400,000 results (0.30 seconds)."

    However, recipes for soup can be used as simple inspiration or as a jumping off point. Take a look around your kitchen and see what you have on hand. Make a soup that is your own or, as in the case of the cabbage and kielbasa soup, make a soup version of a favorite dish for the flavor with a lot less work. 

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino, adapted for BostonZest from one of her Fresh & Local newspaper columns
    Photos: ©2011-2014 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

  • Do You Plan to Do More Cooking at Home in 2015?

    Many 2015 New Year’s resolutions revolve around ways to get healthier, save money, or learn new things. Cooking more at home and eating out less can be a step to all those goals. In one of my recent Fresh & Local newspaper columns I shared a few kitchen tips and tricks to help you cut clean up time, waste less food, and make cooking more fun.

    Do you plan to do more cooking in 2015 than you did in 2014? How is that resolution going so far?

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    Less Stress

    I’ve been rereading Michael Ruhlman's books lately. In Ruhlman's Twenty: 20 Techniques 100 Recipes A Cook's Manifesto, the first technique he recommends you learn to be a good cook is THINK. He asks his readers to stop and think as they step into the kitchen. This is a great way to reduce the stress of meal preparation.

    Run through what you want to do in your mind. Make sure you have all the ingredients for your recipe. Get your equipment out and prepare everything you’ll need for the actual cooking.

    In professional kitchens, this is called “mise en place.” It’s the reason a restaurant can pump out hundreds of great meals in a few hours and why a great cook can coordinate a meal so that everything is ready at the same time.

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    Less Waste

    If you don’t use the food you buy, let it spoil, and then throw it out, you won’t save money by cooking at home.

    To cut food waste, take the THINK technique one more step backwards. Before you decide what to make or compile your shopping list, check your refrigerator and pantry. What do you already have on hand? What needs to be used before it becomes food waste? Do you have space in your refrigerator or freezer to store leftovers if you make a big batch of something?

    I find cooking very relaxing. With a tiny kitchen, I have to do a lot of thinking and planning to get a meal together. And, the small space forces me to clean as I go so I don't have a ton of clean up at the end of a cooking session. I'm also blessed with a husband who actually says, "You cooked it, I'll clean up," after a meal.

    So far, I'm doing just about as much cooking in 2015 as I did in 2014. Here's hoping you find yourself enjoying your time in the kitchen a bit more with this THINK tip and technique.

    Oh, and about Ruhlman's Twenty: 20 Techniques 100 Recipes A Cook's Manifesto, I highly recommend it to cooks at all levels of experience. 

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    Words: Penny Cherubino from her Fresh & Local Newspaper column
    Photos: ©2010-2014 Penny & Ed Cherubino