Tag: Kenji Alt-Lopes

  • Do You Follow Recipes or Adapt Them?

    Learning to cook with two new cooking appliances has me reviewing and following recipes designed specifically for sous vide cooking with my Joule immersion circulator and for pressure cooking with my Instant Pot.

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    Slowly I’m figuring out whose temperature recommendations and time guidelines for sous vide cooking I can trust. The chicken shown above was cooked at 149 degrees for one hour.

    It’s the same way I determine which cookbook authors and websites conduct very good recipe testing and publish reliable guides. Kenji Alt-Lopes and his Sous Vide 101 posts over on Serious Eats seem the most reliable for the taste in our household.

    I’m keeping a sous vide journal to record details of each meal cooked and what happens if I do something wrong – like overestimating the thickness of a steak. Since sous vide cooking is something I’ve never attempted, it does come with a bit an experimental, make-a-mistake, correct-it-next-time, learning curve.

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    Pressure cookers were always in use among members of my extended family and I had one when I lived in a large suburban house. It was one of those things I chose not to move to a tiny city kitchen. Although the learning curve is less steep, I’ve already added too much liquid to a curry, forgetting that in the pressure cooker the sauce was not going to reduce and thicken.

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    Same Recipe, Different Outcomes

    All of this experimentation made me more aware of how daunting learning to cook can be. It helps to realize that the entire process is inexact and even old hands will not have a perfect outcome every time, even if they slavishly follow a recipe.

    A recent PBS video by Jacques Pépin has gone viral among my food-loving friends. 

    Jacques uses his recipe for caramelized pears to demonstrate how a cook can go wrong by not adapting a recipe to the conditions and ingredients on hand. For example, unripe pears take longer to cook than ripe ones. In the process of cooking the pears, the sugar used to form the caramel could burn before the unripe fruit cooks through. He also shows how to adapt for each possible problem.

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

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    Words: Penny Cherubino
    Photos: ©2017 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

  • Compound Butter Is Sous Vide Cooking’s Best Friend

    As I learn to get the best results from my new Joule Sous Vide circulator, I check a number of sites and recommendations for each new item I cook. Often a writer will recommend marinating or adding oil and herbs to the cooking bag with meat or fish.

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    Sometimes a plan calls for searing with herbs and butter as in this guide for Butter-Basted Sous Vide Halibut from one of my food mentors Kenji Alt-Lopes over on Serious Eats.

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    It dawned on me that a lot of the time I spend preparing a bag of goodies for their sous vide bath includes using a Microplane or chopping ingredients to add to the bag or to use in the final sear in my trusty cast iron skillet.

    Compound Butter is a Sous Vide Winner!

    Kenji's recipe inspired me to make a compound butter of parsley, thyme, lemon zest, salt, pepper, and unsalted butter. I melted a bit in the microwave and mixed it with olive oil to add to the sous vide bag with the halibut. Another chunk was added to the pan when I was searing. As this melted, I tipped the pan and spooned the buttery mélange over the fish. The rest of the batch was popped into the freezer.

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    You can use a food processor to mix the flavor agents into your butter, but unless I'm making a large batch, I just mince my flavors together and use a fork to blend them into the butter right on my cutting board.

    This technique not only allows you to prepare a bunch of small batches with different flavors, but it also makes cleanup a lot easier.

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    Form a log with the butter you are not going to use.

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    Wrap it, label it, and pop it in the freezer for your next sous vide adventure. With a selection of compound butters in your freezer, your next sous vide dish will take even less prep time. 
     

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

    Details:

    Words: Penny Ed Cherubino
    Photos: ©2017 Penny & Ed Cherubino