Tag: jacques pepin

  • Home Cooks Have Chops!

    Recently, a friend joined us for lunch and, along the way, our discussion turned to TV cooking shows. We all liked the original Great British Baking Show because of the warm, supportive contestants who were all serious hobby bakers.

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    We also enjoyed the Master Classes by the hosts, Paul Hollywood and Mary Berry. It’s fun to watch them work together teasing but helpful and eager to pick up tips from one another as we learn from both of them.

    We listed other cooking show hosts and series that echoed that warmth and educational aspect like the older seasons of Moveable Feast, Alton Brown's Good Eats, Ina Garten, Sara Moulton, Jamie Oliver, Jacques Pepin and, of course, Boston’s own Julia Child!

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    Cooking as Conflict

    On the other hand, you won’t find our TV tuned to the “reality-based” cooking competitions offered by the big cable outlets. Chopped, Cutthroat Kitchen, Top Chef, Iron Chef, Hell’s Kitchen, Throwdown, and MasterChef all clearly display an attitude that cooking is a competitive endeavor.

    For the people who take part in these shows, food is not about hospitality, tradition, nutrition, fun, or honing useful skills. What matters is who has the best “chops” or virtuosity and technical skills in the kitchen. It is about being numero uno with those oh-so-important celebrity judges.

    These shows are often referred to as “reality-based” because they toss in a few staged crises and highlight adversarial relationships as fits the formula. Unfortunately, this is a recipe for sending a generation of prospective cooks to the take-out counter. “If a celebrity chef has a problem doing this, what hope is there for me,” they ask.

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    Leftovers from a Sunday roast chicken and vegetables can become a hearty, savory, main course bread pudding in the hands of a good home cook.

    Home Cooks Win!

    Like many of you who cook at home, we know there is nothing exceptional about facing a grab bag of ingredients and making a wonderful meal out of them. Good home cooks do this every time they walk into the kitchen and decide what to make for dinner. They do it when unexpected guests arrive and they throw together something delicious to share. What’s more, their judges are people who really matter–family and friends.

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    Leftovers become a frittata with a nice crisp salad for dinner.

    Generations of Home Cooks with Chops

    Today’s home cooks are pulled along by the apron strings of generations of both memorable and unknown cooks who came before them. In some cases, you may remember a patient teacher who taught you to make cookies or grill a fish.

    Other women and men from generations earlier created dishes that we consider comfort food today. These were made from whatever ingredients they had on hand and were often economical as well as delicious. They turned Sunday roast leftovers into Monday meat pies, Tuesday stuffed vegetables, Wednesday pasta sauces, and Thursday casseroles. They served up fish dishes on Fridays and beans on Saturday night.

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    In addition to the stove magic, home cooks do the budgeting, shopping, food storage, ingredient preparation, serving, and cleanup with just a bit of help from those they feed. They plan how to use the leftovers and follow food-safe kitchen practices. Furthermore, they do it week-after-week and year-after-year.

    Home-based kitchen wizards may not be awarded celebrity status or prize money, but they do win smiles and grateful hearts. They have the real chops when it comes to cooking.

    The next time you sit down to a well-prepared meal take a moment to thank the cook. And, if you are the cook, give yourself a smile and a pat on your own back. You know who the real winners are, you and those around your table. 

    What's on your Food Lover's Shopping List?

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Photos: ©2017- 2018 Penny & Ed Cherubino, top photo courtesy of The Great British Baking Show
    (Adapted for BostonZest from one of our Fresh & Local newspaper columns.)

  • Entertaining? Wrap It Up!

    From the most casual burrito to Julia Child’s elegant “Salmon en Papillote,” food in wraps, of one kind or another, can be a great solution for entertaining.

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    Here's one of our favorite wrap-ups – a Vietnamese crêpe using lettuce to create the perfect bite!

    On the casual side of the world of wraps, many food cultures have their own version. Think of the Italian piadina, Greek gyros, Vietnamese lettuce wraps, Mexican tacos, Indian roti, Japanese sushi, Chinese moo shi, dumplings and the list goes on and on. Many of these began as street food and the wrapper made it easy for someone to eat as they stood or walked along.

    On the elegant side, we have a world of food wrapped in paper (in the case of Julia’s “en Papillote”) or in pastry as in Beef Wellington, Camembert wrapped in pastry, savory strudels, and pies enclosed in hot water crust, pizza dough, puff pastry, phyllo, or dozens of other coatings.

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    Quesadillas are another wrapped food.

    Create a Wrap Bar

    For easy entertaining you can create a wrap bar which is nothing more than a table filled with an assortment of good things to tuck inside another good thing. You can have a theme using any of the cultures mentioned above.

    For example: a taco table could have tortillas, salsas, avocados, pickled onions and cabbage, meats, chopped lettuce, crema, and lime. You can offer non-meat options like sautéd zucchini, scrambled eggs, seasoned potatoes, or for a very authentic taste nopales – otherwise known as cactus paddles.

    By letting everyone select and prepare their own meal, you can accommodate friends and family with many food preferences.

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    Here is another favorite of ours, Salmon en papillote with carrots, ginger, chives, and lemon zest peeking out of its parchment paper wrapper.

    En Papillote

    In Jacques Pépin’s “New Complete Techniques,” this master of cooking skills writes, “When you see ‘papillote’ on a menu in a French restaurant, you can safely assume that it describes a dish served in an envelope of parchment paper …” He goes on to explain, “When the papillote is folded correctly (it is sealed so that none of the aroma and steam can escape) it browns nicely, inflates, and the dish inside bakes in its own juices. The papillote is served directly on the serving plate and the guest opens it himself.”

    If this is the only dish you learn to cook for company, you will be a relaxed chef with happy guests. You can prepare the packages hours in advance and tuck them into the refrigerator to wait for their trip to the oven.

    Change-ups for different guests are easy. If salmon is on the menu, just substitute a piece of chicken for the person who doesn’t like fish. You can make a vegetarian option or one without a specific ingredient.

    Your main item in the parchment paper package is topped with a selection of vegetables, herbs, and seasoning that enhance the flavor and complete the meal. With today’s prepared vegetable options in the marketplace, you don’t even have to do all the chopping and prep work. Just select your main ingredient and shop for some spiralized vegetables to add to the meal. 

    If folding the packages is more than you care to do, there are even parchment paper bags to make that part easier.

    Most versions take less than half an hour in a hot oven and are ready to slide onto a dinner plate and present at the table.

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    Crêpes are another lovely wrapped meal.

    Some dinner party entrées, such as Beef Wellington, take a bit of skill and cheffy work to succeed. If you have the time and the skills, this dish can be fun to make and very impressive to serve. However, there are other options that can begin with a package of pizza dough or frozen puff pastry and your imagination. So the next time it’s your turn to entertain, think about how you will wrap it up!

    What's on your Food Lover's Shopping List?

         

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Photos: ©2017 Penny & Ed Cherubino
    (Adapted for BostonZest from one of our Fresh & Local newspaper columns.)

  • Do You Follow Recipes or Adapt Them?

    Learning to cook with two new cooking appliances has me reviewing and following recipes designed specifically for sous vide cooking with my Joule immersion circulator and for pressure cooking with my Instant Pot.

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    Slowly I’m figuring out whose temperature recommendations and time guidelines for sous vide cooking I can trust. The chicken shown above was cooked at 149 degrees for one hour.

    It’s the same way I determine which cookbook authors and websites conduct very good recipe testing and publish reliable guides. Kenji Alt-Lopes and his Sous Vide 101 posts over on Serious Eats seem the most reliable for the taste in our household.

    I’m keeping a sous vide journal to record details of each meal cooked and what happens if I do something wrong – like overestimating the thickness of a steak. Since sous vide cooking is something I’ve never attempted, it does come with a bit an experimental, make-a-mistake, correct-it-next-time, learning curve.

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    Pressure cookers were always in use among members of my extended family and I had one when I lived in a large suburban house. It was one of those things I chose not to move to a tiny city kitchen. Although the learning curve is less steep, I’ve already added too much liquid to a curry, forgetting that in the pressure cooker the sauce was not going to reduce and thicken.

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    Same Recipe, Different Outcomes

    All of this experimentation made me more aware of how daunting learning to cook can be. It helps to realize that the entire process is inexact and even old hands will not have a perfect outcome every time, even if they slavishly follow a recipe.

    A recent PBS video by Jacques Pépin has gone viral among my food-loving friends. 

    Jacques uses his recipe for caramelized pears to demonstrate how a cook can go wrong by not adapting a recipe to the conditions and ingredients on hand. For example, unripe pears take longer to cook than ripe ones. In the process of cooking the pears, the sugar used to form the caramel could burn before the unripe fruit cooks through. He also shows how to adapt for each possible problem.

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino
    Photos: ©2017 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

  • Do You Follow Recipes or Adapt Them?

    Learning to cook with two new cooking appliances has me reviewing and following recipes designed specifically for sous vide cooking with my Joule immersion circulator and for pressure cooking with my Instant Pot.

    IMG_1449

    Slowly I’m figuring out whose temperature recommendations and time guidelines for sous vide cooking I can trust. The chicken shown above was cooked at 149 degrees for one hour.

    It’s the same way I determine which cookbook authors and websites conduct very good recipe testing and publish reliable guides. Kenji Alt-Lopes and his Sous Vide 101 posts over on Serious Eats seem the most reliable for the taste in our household.

    I’m keeping a sous vide journal to record details of each meal cooked and what happens if I do something wrong – like overestimating the thickness of a steak. Since sous vide cooking is something I’ve never attempted, it does come with a bit an experimental, make-a-mistake, correct-it-next-time, learning curve.

    IMG_5022 copy

    Pressure cookers were always in use among members of my extended family and I had one when I lived in a large suburban house. It was one of those things I chose not to move to a tiny city kitchen. Although the learning curve is less steep, I’ve already added too much liquid to a curry, forgetting that in the pressure cooker the sauce was not going to reduce and thicken.

    Screen Shot 2017-01-24 at Tuesday, January 24, 201712.37.27 PM

    Same Recipe, Different Outcomes

    All of this experimentation made me more aware of how daunting learning to cook can be. It helps to realize that the entire process is inexact and even old hands will not have a perfect outcome every time, even if they slavishly follow a recipe.

    A recent PBS video by Jacques Pépin has gone viral among my food-loving friends. 

    Jacques uses his recipe for caramelized pears to demonstrate how a cook can go wrong by not adapting a recipe to the conditions and ingredients on hand. For example, unripe pears take longer to cook than ripe ones. In the process of cooking the pears, the sugar used to form the caramel could burn before the unripe fruit cooks through. He also shows how to adapt for each possible problem.

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino
    Photos: ©2017 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

  • BU Seminars in Food, Wine & the Arts

    BU Seminars

    The catalog for the BU Seminars in Food, Wine & the Arts is one piece of mail that always brings a big smile to my face. Now that a new season of lectures, feasts, hands-on-cooking, tastings, demonstrations, and special events has arrived, we're making this wonderful series our Friday Link.

    Over the years, I have enjoyed and learned from people I respect at these events. If you are not on the mailing list, you can find the listing online right here. Explore the seasonal offerings and make your reservations now. You'll be surprised how fast some of these events sell out.

    What's on your food lover's shopping list? Shop Amazon for all your kitchen & dining needs and support this site!

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Screengrab courtesy of Alimentum  

    Note on Comments: We monitor comments constantly and anything that is pure spam, inappropriate, or nasty is swept away. In addition to readers' comments, we welcome hearing from the people, places, and services we cover. Often, those add great insights for our readers. As long as it doesn’t become a pure ad, we’d love to hear from you. We do reserve the right to edit ads and links out of comments.

     
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  • BU Seminars in Food, Wine & the Arts

    BU Seminars

    The catalog for the BU Seminars in Food, Wine & the Arts is one piece of mail that always brings a big smile to my face. Now that a new season of lectures, feasts, hands-on-cooking, tastings, demonstrations, and special events has arrived, we're making this wonderful series our Friday Link.

    Over the years, I have enjoyed and learned from people I respect at these events. If you are not on the mailing list, you can find the listing online right here. Explore the seasonal offerings and make your reservations now. You'll be surprised how fast some of these events sell out.

    What's on your food lover's shopping list? Shop Amazon for all your kitchen & dining needs and support this site!

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Screengrab courtesy of Alimentum  

    Note on Comments: We monitor comments constantly and anything that is pure spam, inappropriate, or nasty is swept away. In addition to readers' comments, we welcome hearing from the people, places, and services we cover. Often, those add great insights for our readers. As long as it doesn’t become a pure ad, we’d love to hear from you. We do reserve the right to edit ads and links out of comments.

     
    Enhanced by Zemanta
  • BU Seminars in Food, Wine & the Arts

    BU Seminars

    The catalog for the BU Seminars in Food, Wine & the Arts is one piece of mail that always brings a big smile to my face. Now that a new season of lectures, feasts, hands-on-cooking, tastings, demonstrations, and special events has arrived, we're making this wonderful series our Friday Link.

    Over the years, I have enjoyed and learned from people I respect at these events. If you are not on the mailing list, you can find the listing online right here. Explore the seasonal offerings and make your reservations now. You'll be surprised how fast some of these events sell out.

    What's on your food lover's shopping list? Shop Amazon for all your kitchen & dining needs and support this site!

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Screengrab courtesy of Alimentum  

    Note on Comments: We monitor comments constantly and anything that is pure spam, inappropriate, or nasty is swept away. In addition to readers' comments, we welcome hearing from the people, places, and services we cover. Often, those add great insights for our readers. As long as it doesn’t become a pure ad, we’d love to hear from you. We do reserve the right to edit ads and links out of comments.

     
    Enhanced by Zemanta