During the past week, we have managed to have three breakfasts and one dinner at Devon's in Provincetown's East End. Just the thought of that puts big smiles on our faces.
Our favorite breakfast spot transforms itself each evening to become a white tablecloth, fine dining restaurant with food that would rank with the best in Boston.
We shared our meals because we both wanted the same dishes. Above is the Pan Seared Atlantic Halibut with Cannellini Beans, Pearl Onion, Baby Mustard Green Ragout over Grilled Picholine Olive Bread.
Penny thinks that owner Devon Ruesch and Chef Julia Moore understand that all that sea air makes for hungry diners. They have found ways to balance a meal with elements like that olive bread under the halibut. It soaked up the oniony broth and reminded us of our favorite part of French onion soup.
Here's the house brined, double thick cut, Berkshire pork chop with spiced peach gastrique, crispy spaetzle, over Swiss chard. Here, the wonderful base of spaetzle and chard filled in any empty spaces a big eater might have after gnawing the last morsel off the bone of that chop. Our bone returned to the kitchen as clean as our plates.
More good news on the Provincetown food scene is that Devon has opened a second place, Devon's Deep Sea Dive in the old Tips for Tops'n space on Bradford Street. He has kept some old favorites like the Portuguese Seafood Stew and updates classic seafood shack favorites with the best ingredients and a chef's touch to enhance the appeal.
Here's an archive post about breakfast at Devon's.
Cornmeal Blueberry Pancakes At Devon's in Provincetown
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Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
Photography: © 2013 Penny & Ed Cherubino