bostonzest

Category: Food: Recipes

  • ‘Tis The Season to Make Caponata

    Caponata, Capunata, Capunatina, however you spell it, each cook has his or her own version. 

    IMG_2860

    Some refer to it as a sweet & sour version of ratatouille. Most recipes call for the best of this harvest season. After all, this relish was made to preserve the food for the winter months.

    IMG_0388

    Eggplant is the main ingredient. Tomato, onion, vinegar, garlic, raisins, olives, pine nuts, capers, and olive oil seem pretty standard. Then come individual additions that vary by cook, region, or family. These include fennel, peppers, celery, and zucchini to name a few.

    The cook’s choice of seasonings might include red pepper flakes, anchovies, sugar, oregano, mint, or basil. In other words, thrifty cooks made this from whatever the garden or market had in abundance on a given day.

    IMG_2892

    History of Caponata

    Like many Mediterranean foods, this Sicilian antipasto relish with its sweet and sour base, dried fruit, and pine nuts probably has its origins in the Middle East.

    Food historian Clifford Wright traces it back to a food served on sailing vessels. The vinegar was a preservative and he notes that a version of it was served as a mariner’s breakfast.

    On his website, Wright cites Sicilian food authority Pino Correnti who, “… believes that the dish is derived from the Catalan word caponata, meaning a similar kind of relish, and says it first appears in a Sicilian etymology of 1709.”

    IMG_2879

    My Caponata

    My version is lighter than most. I brush the eggplant with olive oil and roast or grill it, instead of frying, and sauté the other vegetable in a minimum amount of oil. I also use what’s on hand rather than follow a strict recipe.

    I cook the ingredients separately (using my favorite pan) and mix them later. This lets me ensure each vegetable is cooked properly and that nothing gets too mushy. I like my caponata a bit al dente.

    Recipes

    Here are a few recipes for those of you who prefer to follow one.

    Here's Clifford Wright's Caponata recipe

    Sicilian Eggplant Caponata from Eating Well

    Epicurious Classic Caponata with comments

    Canning Caution

    I mentioned preserving this for the winter season. With that, the question of a water bath or pressure canning comes up. Since I’m not an expert on preserving, I would give a nod to the advice of Eugenia Bone, author of the book Well-Preserved. She writes, “If you have ANY doubts about the pH of your recipe, then pressure can.”

    What's on your Food Lover's Shopping List? Click over to Amazon from here and they will put a few coins in our tip jar.

     

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino (Adapted for BostonZest from one of her Fresh & Local newspaper columns.)

    Photos: ©2016 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

    Related articles
    Healthy Alternatives for July 4th Cookouts, Pot Lucks, or Picnics
    Benny and the Salmon & Why You Shouldn't Feed Raw Salmon to Dogs
    Simple Spring Supper: Asparagus & Eggs

  • ‘Tis The Season to Make Caponata

    Caponata, Capunata, Capunatina, however you spell it, each cook has his or her own version. 

    IMG_2860

    Some refer to it as a sweet & sour version of ratatouille. Most recipes call for the best of this harvest season. After all, this relish was made to preserve the food for the winter months.

    IMG_0388

    Eggplant is the main ingredient. Tomato, onion, vinegar, garlic, raisins, olives, pine nuts, capers, and olive oil seem pretty standard. Then come individual additions that vary by cook, region, or family. These include fennel, peppers, celery, and zucchini to name a few.

    The cook’s choice of seasonings might include red pepper flakes, anchovies, sugar, oregano, mint, or basil. In other words, thrifty cooks made this from whatever the garden or market had in abundance on a given day.

    IMG_2892

    History of Caponata

    Like many Mediterranean foods, this Sicilian antipasto relish with its sweet and sour base, dried fruit, and pine nuts probably has its origins in the Middle East.

    Food historian Clifford Wright traces it back to a food served on sailing vessels. The vinegar was a preservative and he notes that a version of it was served as a mariner’s breakfast.

    On his website, Wright cites Sicilian food authority Pino Correnti who, “… believes that the dish is derived from the Catalan word caponata, meaning a similar kind of relish, and says it first appears in a Sicilian etymology of 1709.”

    IMG_2879

    My Caponata

    My version is lighter than most. I brush the eggplant with olive oil and roast or grill it, instead of frying, and sauté the other vegetable in a minimum amount of oil. I also use what’s on hand rather than follow a strict recipe.

    I cook the ingredients separately (using my favorite pan) and mix them later. This lets me ensure each vegetable is cooked properly and that nothing gets too mushy. I like my caponata a bit al dente.

    Recipes

    Here are a few recipes for those of you who prefer to follow one.

    Here's Clifford Wright's Caponata recipe

    Sicilian Eggplant Caponata from Eating Well

    Epicurious Classic Caponata with comments

    Canning Caution

    I mentioned preserving this for the winter season. With that, the question of a water bath or pressure canning comes up. Since I’m not an expert on preserving, I would give a nod to the advice of Eugenia Bone, author of the book Well-Preserved. She writes, “If you have ANY doubts about the pH of your recipe, then pressure can.”

    What's on your Food Lover's Shopping List? Click over to Amazon from here and they will put a few coins in our tip jar.

     

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino (Adapted for BostonZest from one of her Fresh & Local newspaper columns.)

    Photos: ©2016 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

    Related articles
    Healthy Alternatives for July 4th Cookouts, Pot Lucks, or Picnics
    Benny and the Salmon & Why You Shouldn't Feed Raw Salmon to Dogs
    Simple Spring Supper: Asparagus & Eggs

  • August Is Time for a Stillman’s BLT

    There is nothing like a mid-summer BLT sandwich. 

    IMG_8996

    The one above features Stillman's Farm heirloom tomatoes, salad greens, and Applewood smoked bacon from Sillman Quality Meats. The bread is from a local bakery. That slice of avocado that we use to replace mayo is the only thing not from a local source. 

    IMG_8964

    It's an easy build. Slice and toast sourdough bread, top with sliced avocado. You can mash it, if you like, but sliced with a grind of pepper is fine.

    IMG_8969

    There are purists, like Chef Tony Maws, who will only serve tomatoes when they reach their peak of local flavor in August. I admit to accepting lesser tomatoes outside of this month, but I do go out of my way to serve the best of the local ones each season. Here I added slabs of Stillman's full-flavored heirlooms that tempted us at the Boston Public Market.

    IMG_8975

    Next comes slabs of farmer's cut bacon from Stillman Quality Meats.

    IMG_8981

    Finally a handful of lettuce from the big bag of salad greens we picked up at Stillman's stand at the Copley Square Farmers Market.

    IMG_8964-COLLAGE

    Put it all together and you have one of the truly great summer season meals. 

    What's on your Food Lover's Shopping List?

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino
    Photos: ©2016 Penny Cherubino 

  • August Is Time for a Stillman’s BLT

    There is nothing like a mid-summer BLT sandwich. 

    IMG_8996

    The one above features Stillman's Farm heirloom tomatoes, salad greens, and Applewood smoked bacon from Sillman Quality Meats. The bread is from a local bakery. That slice of avocado that we use to replace mayo is the only thing not from a local source. 

    IMG_8964

    It's an easy build. Slice and toast sourdough bread, top with sliced avocado. You can mash it, if you like, but sliced with a grind of pepper is fine.

    IMG_8969

    There are purists, like Chef Tony Maws, who will only serve tomatoes when they reach their peak of local flavor in August. I admit to accepting lesser tomatoes outside of this month, but I do go out of my way to serve the best of the local ones each season. Here I added slabs of Stillman's full-flavored heirlooms that tempted us at the Boston Public Market.

    IMG_8975

    Next comes slabs of farmer's cut bacon from Stillman Quality Meats.

    IMG_8981

    Finally a handful of lettuce from the big bag of salad greens we picked up at Stillman's stand at the Copley Square Farmers Market.

    IMG_8964-COLLAGE

    Put it all together and you have one of the truly great summer season meals. 

    What's on your Food Lover's Shopping List?

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino
    Photos: ©2016 Penny Cherubino 

  • Congratulations! Edible Boston Summer 2016 Issue Is Their 10th Anniversary!

    The arrival of a new preview issue of Edible Boston in my mailbox always makes me smile. As I read the Ilene Bezahler's letter to her readers, my smile grew from ear-to-ear. This is their 10th Anniversary and a new publication will be added to the family. (More on that below.)

    Edible Boston Summer 2016

    Celebrate with Edible Boston as they welcome a new season of food and spotlight the businesses that support fresh and local food in our community. 

    20090820DSC_0012 - Version 2

    Be sure to read John Lee's, "Farmers Diary: Ten with Edible Boston" for his thoughts on the progress the local food movement has made in the past decade.

    (Penny profiled John over on Serious Eats a few years ago. Here's more about this intelligent, thoughtful man.)

     KnGcVifY

    That Sibling Publication: "To Market"

    I'm very excited about the expansion of the Edible Boston talent bank into the regional food policy topic. As Ilene describes it, "To Market will take a regional approach to local food but with the added impact of tackling policy issues, exploring trends across state lines and how the New England states interact to form a vibrant, regional food economy." More about it in a report from Boston Business Journal.

    In September, you'll find more about it on the new website, and you can follow along now on Facebook and Twitter.

    Support publisher Ilene Bezahler and her talented team

    First, pick up a copy of Edible Boston at one of these locations. In fact, pick up two copies and share one with a food-loving friend or leave it where someone might discover it among lesser publications and become a new fan.

    May I suggest that you let their sponsors know you saw them in the magazine and grab an extra copy and get it to someone else who cares about supporting the local food movement. Also, if you have a blog, twitter account, or facebook page, write about them, link to them, follow them, retweet their tweets, like them on facebook, and, in general, spread the word about this great asset to our community.

    And, to be sure you never miss an issue, you can subscribe over on their website!

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list? Shop Amazon for all your kitchen & dining needs and support this site!

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino
    Covershot & Photos: photographer Michael Piazza Courtesy of Edible Boston (If you love great photography, always pick up an Edible Boston issue!) John Lee photo ©2009, Penny Cherubino

    Related articles
    Who Will Grow Our Food If There Are No New Farmers?
    Do You Mise En Place When You Cook?

  • Congratulations! Edible Boston Summer 2016 Issue Is Their 10th Anniversary!

    The arrival of a new preview issue of Edible Boston in my mailbox always makes me smile. As I read the Ilene Bezahler's letter to her readers, my smile grew from ear-to-ear. This is their 10th Anniversary and a new publication will be added to the family. (More on that below.)

    Edible Boston Summer 2016

    Celebrate with Edible Boston as they welcome a new season of food and spotlight the businesses that support fresh and local food in our community. 

    20090820DSC_0012 - Version 2

    Be sure to read John Lee's, "Farmers Diary: Ten with Edible Boston" for his thoughts on the progress the local food movement has made in the past decade.

    (Penny profiled John over on Serious Eats a few years ago. Here's more about this intelligent, thoughtful man.)

     KnGcVifY

    That Sibling Publication: "To Market"

    I'm very excited about the expansion of the Edible Boston talent bank into the regional food policy topic. As Ilene describes it, "To Market will take a regional approach to local food but with the added impact of tackling policy issues, exploring trends across state lines and how the New England states interact to form a vibrant, regional food economy." More about it in a report from Boston Business Journal.

    In September, you'll find more about it on the new website, and you can follow along now on Facebook and Twitter.

    Support publisher Ilene Bezahler and her talented team

    First, pick up a copy of Edible Boston at one of these locations. In fact, pick up two copies and share one with a food-loving friend or leave it where someone might discover it among lesser publications and become a new fan.

    May I suggest that you let their sponsors know you saw them in the magazine and grab an extra copy and get it to someone else who cares about supporting the local food movement. Also, if you have a blog, twitter account, or facebook page, write about them, link to them, follow them, retweet their tweets, like them on facebook, and, in general, spread the word about this great asset to our community.

    And, to be sure you never miss an issue, you can subscribe over on their website!

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list? Shop Amazon for all your kitchen & dining needs and support this site!

    Details:

    Words: Penny Cherubino
    Covershot & Photos: photographer Michael Piazza Courtesy of Edible Boston (If you love great photography, always pick up an Edible Boston issue!) John Lee photo ©2009, Penny Cherubino

    Related articles
    Who Will Grow Our Food If There Are No New Farmers?
    Do You Mise En Place When You Cook?

  • Cole Slaw and Portuguese Muffins Make for a Great Ham Sandwich

    Portuguese muffins, also called Bolos Levedos, are always on the list for my monthly food shopping loop through Somerville and Cambridge. I've recently noticed more and more chef using these light, slightly sweet flatbreads as a base for burgers.

    IMG_7080

    They recently became part of this very delicious ham sandwich from our kitchen.

    If you read the ingredients on many of the local products you won't find preservatives. Because of that, I cut most of a package of 6 muffins in half, wrap them in wax paper and freeze them. Then when we need something for a snack, or as a sandwich base, we reach for one and pop it in the toaster. 

    IMG_7066

    I spread each side with a swipe of Stonewall Kitchen's Bourbon Molasses Mustard. It's one of my favorite condiments. I stock up on it on visits to Russo's.

    IMG_7068

    A bowl of my tangy cole slaw was in the refrigerator so I piled that on one muffin half and stacked some slices of ham on the other. (How I make my no-mayo coleslaw is covered in an earlier post.)

    IMG_7072

    Now, when I think about a sandwich with a lot of filling, I'm going to think Portuguese muffins. It holds up under the contents and is much easier to eat than many alternatives. 

    If you want to make your own Bolos Levedos here's a recipe with nice clear instructions. It's from Maria Dias author of Taste Portugal. Since the cook in a hot skillet, you won't have to fire the oven to enjoy these as a homemade bread. 

    You can also make them from this King Arthur Flour Portuguese Sweet Bread Mix.

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

     

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Photos: ©2016 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

  • Cole Slaw and Portuguese Muffins Make for a Great Ham Sandwich

    Portuguese muffins, also called Bolos Levedos, are always on the list for my monthly food shopping loop through Somerville and Cambridge. I've recently noticed more and more chef using these light, slightly sweet flatbreads as a base for burgers.

    IMG_7080

    They recently became part of this very delicious ham sandwich from our kitchen.

    If you read the ingredients on many of the local products you won't find preservatives. Because of that, I cut most of a package of 6 muffins in half, wrap them in wax paper and freeze them. Then when we need something for a snack, or as a sandwich base, we reach for one and pop it in the toaster. 

    IMG_7066

    I spread each side with a swipe of Stonewall Kitchen's Bourbon Molasses Mustard. It's one of my favorite condiments. I stock up on it on visits to Russo's.

    IMG_7068

    A bowl of my tangy cole slaw was in the refrigerator so I piled that on one muffin half and stacked some slices of ham on the other. (How I make my no-mayo coleslaw is covered in an earlier post.)

    IMG_7072

    Now, when I think about a sandwich with a lot of filling, I'm going to think Portuguese muffins. It holds up under the contents and is much easier to eat than many alternatives. 

    If you want to make your own Bolos Levedos here's a recipe with nice clear instructions. It's from Maria Dias author of Taste Portugal. Since the cook in a hot skillet, you won't have to fire the oven to enjoy these as a homemade bread. 

    You can also make them from this King Arthur Flour Portuguese Sweet Bread Mix.

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

     

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Photos: ©2016 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

  • Our Search Is on for the Best Jamaican Patties in Boston!

    We are missing the Jamaican Patties we enjoy in Provincetown and are now on the hunt for the best of Boston's offerings of this savory meat pie.

    Sm IMG_7023 (1) copy

    In Provincetown, we pick up a few at Far Land Provisions and heat them as a quick snack or to accompany a salad as a meal. 

    The flaky example above is from Izzy's on the corner of Windsor and Harvard Streets in Cambridge (map). We grabbed a few to go and enjoyed a great, quick lunch after a morning round of food shopping in Somerville and Cambridge.

    We're making a list of the places where we will order upcoming Jamaican Patties or as some people call them Jamaican Meat Pies. We've done our research and will report back, but we'd love your opinions. 

    IMG_7045

    Most of the Jamaican Patties served in Boston come from major suppliers like the Tower Isles version shown above. Look for lettering on them, which may be obscured by the flaking of the crust.

    IMG_7029

    Even with the commercial versions, the way a particular place prepares and holds the patties does make a difference to the quality.

    Who serves great versions of this Caribbean classic? Do you know of places that make their own from scratch? Do you have a favorite frozen version and where do you buy those?

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Photos: ©2016 Penny & Ed Cherubino 

  • Our Search Is on for the Best Jamaican Patties in Boston!

    We are missing the Jamaican Patties we enjoy in Provincetown and are now on the hunt for the best of Boston's offerings of this savory meat pie.

    Sm IMG_7023 (1) copy

    In Provincetown, we pick up a few at Far Land Provisions and heat them as a quick snack or to accompany a salad as a meal. 

    The flaky example above is from Izzy's on the corner of Windsor and Harvard Streets in Cambridge (map). We grabbed a few to go and enjoyed a great, quick lunch after a morning round of food shopping in Somerville and Cambridge.

    We're making a list of the places where we will order upcoming Jamaican Patties or as some people call them Jamaican Meat Pies. We've done our research and will report back, but we'd love your opinions. 

    IMG_7045

    Most of the Jamaican Patties served in Boston come from major suppliers like the Tower Isles version shown above. Look for lettering on them, which may be obscured by the flaking of the crust.

    IMG_7029

    Even with the commercial versions, the way a particular place prepares and holds the patties does make a difference to the quality.

    Who serves great versions of this Caribbean classic? Do you know of places that make their own from scratch? Do you have a favorite frozen version and where do you buy those?

    What's on your Food Lover's shopping list?

    Details:

    Words: Penny & Ed Cherubino
    Photos: ©2016 Penny & Ed Cherubino